Bike Checklist
| Tyres | Good tread; no splits, cracks or holes; correct pressure; valve straight |
| Wheels | Rim true with no cracks or splits; no broken, missing or loose spokes |
| Hubs | No play in bearings; turns smoothly; wheel securely fixed (quick release tight) |
| Brakes | Firmly fixed; correctly adjusted; no leaks if it’s a hydraulic system |
| Brake Pads | Correctly fitted & aligned; not worn past wear markings, within makers spec for thickness |
| Brake Levers | Good positioning (easy to reach quickly); firmly fixed; no excessive travel; cable not frayed/ hose not damaged |
| Headset/Steering | No play & not too tight; correctly adjusted |
| Handlebars | No distortion or cracking; ends protected |
| Forks | Undamaged/straight; suspension functioning; no oil or air leaks |
| Frame | Appears true and undamaged – no cracks. If you’re unsure, your bike shop will advise you on small dents – especially on lightweight alloy frames |
| Gears | Indexing properly; lubricated sufficiently; cables not frayed |
| Saddle | Firmly fixed; correct height & angle for comfort & efficient pedalling |
| Bottom Bracket | No play; turns smoothly; cups/lock rings tight |
| Chainset | Straight; firmly fixed; teeth not bent or worn, threads good |
| Pedals | Complete; turning freely; not bent; firmly fixed |
| Cassette | Firmly fixed; teeth not worn; Free-hub not slipping |
| Chain | Not too worn or slack; not rusty; lubricated properly |
| Other | Bolts tight; any accessories attached firmly |
As a guide, a bike retailing at a minimum of £300 in good working order is generally considered suitable for serious mountain biking
