Bike Checklist
| Tyres | Good tread; no splits, cracks or holes; correct pressure; valve straight |
| Wheels | Rim true with no cracks or splits; no broken, missing or loose spokes. Wheel firmly fixed & aligned in frame/forks |
| Hubs | No play in bearings; turns smoothly; wheel securely fixed (quick release tight), no cracks on flanges |
| Brakes | Firmly fixed; correctly adjusted; no leaks if it’s a hydraulic system |
| Brake Pads | Correctly fitted & aligned; not worn past wear markings, within makers spec for thickness |
| Brake Levers | Good positioning (easy to reach quickly); firmly fixed; no excessive travel; cable not frayed/ hose not damaged |
| Headset/Steering | No play & not sticking at all when bars are turned; correctly adjusted |
| Handlebars | No distortion, bending or cracking; ends protected; firmly held by stem clamp |
| Forks | Undamaged/straight; suspension functioning; no oil or air leaks; No creaking. Suspension forks should be set up for rider weight |
| Frame | Appears true and undamaged – no cracks or large dents. If you’re unsure, your bike shop will advise you on small dents |
| Gears | Indexing properly; lubricated sufficiently; cables not frayed |
| Saddle | Firmly fixed; correct height & angle for comfort & efficient pedalling. A well padded may or may not be comfortable! The shape of the saddle matching your shape has more bearing on comfort… |
| Bottom Bracket | No play; turns smoothly; cups/lock rings tight |
| Chainset | Straight; firmly fixed; teeth not bent or worn, threads good |
| Pedals | Complete; turning freely; no play in bearings/bushings; not bent; firmly fixed |
| Cassette | Firmly fixed; teeth not worn; Free-hub free-wheeling properly & not slipping under power |
| Chain | Not too worn or slack; not rusty; no seized links; lubricated properly |
| Other | All bolts present & tightened correctly; any accessories attached firmly |
As a safe guide, a bike retailing at a minimum of £400 & in good working order is generally considered suitable for mountain biking
